To start the summer of 2024 off, M1 and I made a 4 night, 5 day trip to the Olympic Peninsula to explore Olympic National Park. This was our second time here together, as we made our maiden trip in 2019 when M1 was 2.
As things book out so early these days, the reservations for this trip were made 6 months in advance, once the slots became available in the reservation system.
As things book out so early these days, the reservations for this trip were made 6 months in advance, once the slots became available in the reservation system.
Our general itinerary was the following:
Day 1: We drove to the peninsula (with a quick stop in Portland to visit friends) and spent the night with an old friend of mine who lives on a tiny lake near Bremerton. M1 had a blast riding in a motor boat around the lake, taking a kayak out solo for the first time, learning a different technique of how to start a fire (the log cabin method), and he also finally caught his first fish! Definitely a fun stop and it was really wonderful to see my friend and his wife after so many years. Their life at their lake house is a dream. :)
Day 2: We left their house after a late breakfast (and a kayak across the lake) and headed for Kalaloch campground. As we got near the campground, we stopped at the ranger station to get the Junior Ranger booklet and passport stamps. We learned about nurse trees and really enjoyed chatting with the older ranger who works there. After that, we got set up at our campsite; walked the beach, investigated the cool Tree of Life, gathered skipping rocks and skipped in the waves (4 was the most), and gathered colored rocks hidden amongst the bigger stones. After our chaurterie dinner at our campsite & brushing teeth, we walked back to the beach overlook to check out sunset & then ended our evening picking up nurdles & plastic trash from the beach, per M1's request.
In general, this campground was a great location close to the beach. There was some minor road noise and the sites were close together but with lots of vegetation between them, it wasn't that bad. We had a decent night of sleep.
Day 3: After waking M1 up at 730, breakfasting and breaking camp, we drove an hour through the mist to the Hoh Rainforest Visitor Center. We got to the entrance about 9am and it was already side parking only. During the summer months, getting to the entrance station by 9am is a must unless you want to wait for up to 1-2 hours later in the day. Upon arrival, we investigated the small visitor center and then hiked the Hoh trail to the first small waterfall (2.7-3m one way). The trail itself was really muddy but we had an entertaining time making it through and we also stopped to check out the river along the way (and found hundreds of tadpoles in a lil pond). After we made it back to the Visitor's Center, we refueled and then drove to our campsite at Fairholme to set up camp (1.5 hrs).
After setting up camp, we decided to drive to Sol Doc Resort, where we ate dinner at the resort and then enjoyed the hot springs during the 6-730pm slot. While the hot springs were busy, it wasn't overwhelming and overall both M1 and I thought it was a great highlight to our trip. Sol Doc requires that you purchase a time slot, but reservations in advance weren't needed. They have showers on site and towels available for purchase. These are developed hot springs and there are 2 warm/hot pools, a warm baby wading pool, and then a cold plunge regular sized pool. Most the adults gravitated toward the warm/hot pools, while kids seemed to alternate between the warmer options and the cold plunge pool.
Day 4: We were still at the Fairholme campground for another night, which is by far, one of the best developed campsites I've stayed in. I got to read and enjoy the hammock while M1 slept in and then we walked to the Fairholme store (just past the boat ramp) after breakfast. There are kayak rentals available (4 hrs at a time), but the water was too choppy on that side of the lake to kayak. The store attendant suggested checking out the Log Cabin Lodge on the other side of the lake, as it's a bit more protected and with smoother water typically. Rentals from the Lodge were a better deal at $20/hr (but it was a bit lame as while it was calmer, there are restricted areas). We kayaked for about 45 minutes in a tandem kayak and then we walked the Spruce Railroad Trail to Devils Punchbowl and thru the old railroad tunnel, which was about a 2-2.5m round trip. (The trail is about 4 miles one way and connects over to near the Fairholme campground--could be a great bike option for a round trip outing!)
On our way back to the Fairholme campground, we decided to stop and hike Marymere Falls. The trailhead here was definitely busier but this was an easy 1.5m round trip hike. We also checked out Lake Crescent Lodge as it was in the same area (which was super historic & cool with an incredible view of lake).
Post hike 2, we made dinner back at camp & then checked out the campground by exploring the other camp site loops, walking the shoreline trail (near the walk-in tent sites) and visited with some fellow campers for awhile.
The campground in general has hills but felt more natural than many campground settings with lots of trees and greenery and a bit more space than some campgrounds. Some of the walk-in sites were also right along the shore and could be cool options to experience.
Day 5, after breaking camp, we intended to hike Madison Falls off Elwha on the way back, but due to timing and construction, we ended up not stopping. We did stop at the main ONP Visitor Center in Port Angeles and M1 got his Junior Ranger badge there. We made a quick pit stop at Potlatch State Park before leaving the peninsula and making the long, hot drive back to Eugene (due to construction and holiday traffic).
Highlights of this particular trip:
- Sol Duc Hot Springs
- Kalaloch beach, Tree of Life, and colored stones
- Kayaking Lake Crescent
- Fairholme Campground
On prior ONP trips, I or we:
- Explored Ruby Beach
- Camped at Hoh Campground
- Camped at Sol Duc Campground
- Hiked Sol Duc Falls (& beyond)
- Explored Hurricane Ridge (by far the best ONP visitor center)
- Relished the beauty of Port Townsend
While this trip checked off most of my remaining ONP sites that I'd wanted to experience, I'd also love to come back at some point in the distant future and spend a kidless night or two in the Lake Crescent Lodge or lakefront cabins--definitely dreamy. :) And a side trip to Cape Flattery, the northwestern tip of the contiguous US, could be cool as well.
